Tsukiji Fish Market : Tokyo, Japan
Few places I’ve visited in the world were as frenetic and chaotic as the famous Tsukiji (ski-gee), the old fish market in Tokyo.
Sushi bars and fine restaurants around the world relied on the seafood sold at Tsukiji. It was a place where the ocean’s freshest bounty changed hands in a blur of action and energy.
Today, the fish market has moved to a modern facility—the Toyosu Market—where the same activities take place, but behind glass and barriers, hidden from view. It is no longer an open environment.
When I first began traveling to Japan in the early ’80s, I was in Tokyo three or four times a year for the first five years, and two or three times a year for the fifteen that followed. I have wonderful memories of friends and unforgettable dining experiences, especially the seafood.
Arriving in Tokyo from California, jet lag was always a challenge those first four or five days. I’d wake up feeling fresh and ready to begin the day—at 2 or 3 a.m. There was only one place to go: Tsukiji.
At four in the morning, Tsukiji was already alive. Fresh tuna, soon to be auctioned, was inspected under flashlights. Buyers examined the meat carefully, checking for color and texture. Then the auctions began—hand bells ringing, auctioneers shouting from stools, voices echoing through the cavernous space, urging bids. It was frenetic.
Out of the chaos, dealers moved their purchases to individual stalls, prepping the fish for sale to wholesalers. Soon, the seafood would be en route to kitchens throughout Japan and across the globe.
By 7 a.m., I was hungry. Surrounding the market were shops selling cookware, chef’s knives, and all kinds of food. Sushi, tempura, ramen—everything was available and absolutely delicious.
By 8:30, I’d be back at my hotel, showered and ready for a full day of meetings. Sometimes, staying awake in the afternoon was a challenge, but I loved those experiences in Japan—especially mornings at Tsukiji.
